Mt. Pumori Expedition Tour

Mt. Pumori is located in the Khumbu region and has a distinctive pyramidal shape. This 23,495 ft. peak dominates the skyline behind Kala Patthar (19,000 ft.). Anyone who has traveled to Everest—either as a climber or trekker—will remember Pumori’s unique form. Named by George Leigh Mallory, “Pumori” apparently means “Unmarried Daughter” in the Sherpa language. Previously used as a training peak for Everest expeditions, it is now offered as a guided climb by many companies.

The ascent begins at 5,300 m from a beautiful base camp beside a small lake (water source; bring water filters or barrels for clarification—let the sediment settle overnight). From Base Camp, you have an incredible view of Mt. Everest, with Kalapatthar (5,545 m) just above.

After a loaded 3-hour walk through easy terrain, you reach Camp 1 or Advanced Base Camp at 5,700 m to store your equipment and supplies. After this, you encounter a 500 m elevation gain through 40–65° slopes, a 100 m horizontal traverse, steep and windy narrow ridges, several 5 m ice walls, and one tunnel-like climb. Pumori has many rock and mixed climbing sections (usually no need for rock pitons, but carrying a few for fixing ropes is recommended). In spring, there may be more rockfall, but with a good Sherpa team, spring is still a suitable season.

Camp 2 (6,200 m) is located on a narrow ridge at the end of this section. Although it is exposed to wind, it is usually safe from avalanches (though climbers have reported rare avalanches reaching Camp 2). The next 400 m is an ice climb of 35–65°, including more than 5 m ice walls, several crevasses, and significant avalanche danger from large seracs hanging from the shoulder at 6,500 m. The shoulder can be used as Camp 3, but it is very windy and offers limited advantage.

From here, you can see Tibet. After this point, the route continues along a wide ridge to a visible summit. However, ropes are still required because of numerous crevasses and ice walls. At about 6,850 m, there is an enormous crevasse—200 m long, 40 m deep, and 10–20 m wide. Climbers usually attempt to cross on the Tibet side, where the crevasse ends before a large cliff. On the Nepal side, avalanche risk is higher due to weak snow layers. After safely crossing, the final walk to the summit of Pumori (7,145 m) is relatively straightforward. At least three camps above Base Camp are required to reach the summit.

Base Camp is just above Gorakshep at 5,300 m. From there, Camp 1 can be established around 5,650 m near Pumori’s lower slopes.

Mt. Pumori Expedition does not require high-altitude expedition experience. Proper acclimatization at Base Camp and basic training will make you capable of attempting the summit. The climb is mostly on snow using fixed lines. Some snow and ice climbing experience is helpful. Crampons and an ice axe are required for mixed terrain, and prior experience using these tools is mandatory. You must be in above-average physical condition with strong mental determination.

TRAIL INFORMATION

South Ridge:

A scramble to Advanced Base Camp, then a gradual ascent to steep snow slopes to Camp 1. From Camp 1 to Camp 2, the route includes mixed snow and ice (grade 3 ice), plus some easy to moderate rock climbing (grade 5.4). Summit day involves steep 55° snow. Rock climbing experience is beneficial. Crampons are required on the upper mountain.

The expedition typically includes:

2–5 days in Kathmandu

28–30 days in the field, including trekking from Lukla, climbing Pumori (7,145 m), and returning to Lukla

TRIP FACTS

Country: Nepal
Duration: 32 days
Area: Everest Region
Activity: Expedition
Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous
Max Altitude: 7,145 m
Best Seasons: March, May – September, November

DETAILED ITINERARY

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu

Meet our airport representative and transfer to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 02: Trip Preparation & Free Time

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, Trek to Phakding or Monjo

After completing administrative formalities, fly to Lukla (weather permitting, excellent Himalayan views). Meet the Sherpa staff and begin trekking. Overnight in Monjo. Evenings include rope-skills instruction.

Day 04: Phakding/Monjo to Namche Bazaar

Follow the Dudh Koshi River through pine and cedar forests, ascending to Namche Bazaar (3,445 m). This historic trading village offers markets, Sherpa culture, and panoramic mountain views. Two nights are spent here for acclimatization.

Day 05: Acclimatization Day in Namche

Hike to Kunde and Khumjung villages. Afternoon visit to the Sherpa Museum and local market.

Day 06: Namche to Tengboche

Trek to Tengboche (3,866 m), home to the famous Tengboche Monastery. Attend Buddhist rituals and enjoy spectacular mountain views. Overnight in Pangboche.

Day 07: Visit Tengboche Monastery & Trek to Dingboche

Morning Puja ceremony with Lama Geshe. Trek to Dingboche.

Day 08: Trek to Dugla

Overnight beside the river from the Khumbu Glacier. Overnight in Dingboche.

Day 09: Dingboche to Lobuche

Trek with panoramic views to Lobuche.

Day 10: Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp

Trek to Pumori Base Camp. Sherpa crew sets up camp.

Day 11: Rest & Preparation

Day 12–25: Climbing Period

Training, acclimatization, and summit attempts. Extra days included for weather.

Day 26: Rest Day & Pack Up

Day 27: Trek to Dingboche

Day 28: Dingboche to Tengboche

Day 29: Tengboche to Namche

Day 30: Namche to Lukla

Day 31: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 32: Departure from Kathmandu

Thank you for joining us.

COST LIST

To be updated soon.

INCLUSIONS:

(Your list corrected and cleaned)

Airport pickup and drop-off by private vehicle

Mt. Pumori peak permit fee

Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (bed & breakfast)

Transport for members, staff & Liaison Officer

Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu airfare

Transport of all food & expedition equipment to Base Camp and back

Full board during trekking

Complete Base Camp setup: kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, chairs & tables

Cook & kitchen staff

Base Camp tents for members & staff

Equipment allowance, wages & insurance for staff and Liaison Officer

National Park Conservation Fee

Local transportation

Helicopter rescue insurance (Nepalese staff only)

Agency service charge

EXCLUSIONS:

(All spelling corrected)

International airfare

Nepal entry visa fee

Nepali visa extension

Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu

Extra hotel nights in Kathmandu beyond 6 days

Services above Base Camp

Personal climbing gear above Base Camp

Personal travel/medical/evacuation insurance

Customs duty for imported expedition goods

Personal expenses (drinks, laundry, phone, postage, etc.)

International departure tax

Tips

Refundable garbage deposit

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST:

(All items corrected for clarity)

Down sleeping bag (for Base Camp & ABC)

Down jacket

Gore-Tex jacket & trousers

Double climbing boots + 1 trekking boot

Ice axe + hammer

Rucksack (2)

Crampons (1–2 sets)

Trekking poles (2 sets)

Climbing harness

Gaiters

Snow goggles (2)

Main rope (15 meters)

Ice screw (1)

Small shovel

Mattress

Carabiners (2 regular + 2 locking)

Headlamp (2)

Windproof jacket & trousers

Down trousers

Water bottle

Woolen gloves (3 sets)

Backpack cover

Wind mask

Climbing gloves (3 pairs)

Climbing socks (6 pairs)

Personal medicines

Multi-purpose knife

NOTE:

Please read the terms and conditions before booking.

The itinerary can be customized before the trip begins, but once the expedition starts, modifications are limited.

A trip leader is provided for groups of twelve or more.