| Duration: | 50 Day(s) - 49 Night(s) |
| Tour Category: | Expedition |
Mt. Makalu Expedition (8,463 m / 27,767 ft), known as the Great Black Mountain of Nepal, is situated on the Nepal–Tibet border. It was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side during the 1921 expedition.
The Japanese team climbed Mount Makalu in 1970, another French team reached the summit in 1971, and a Yugoslav expedition completed the ascent in 1975. In 1976, Spanish and Czechoslovakian teams joined near the summit.
The first U.S. team to summit Makalu was in 1980 via the West Pillar Route. The team consisted of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb, and Chris Kopczynski. They successfully put two members on the summit and two within 150 feet of it—without using supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. As expedition climbing is very popular in Nepal, the Mt. Makalu expedition is considered one of the toughest and most challenging climbs.
Routes and Technical Details
The lower section starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging icefall at 6,100 meters on the right side.
The second section extends across a plateau above the icefall, climbing 35°–45° rock slopes up to 6,500 meters.
The next section is an ice–rock wall with a steepness of 50°–55°, extending up to 7,400 meters.
The final section begins with a 70°–75° rock pillar, leading to the West Ridge at around 8,000 meters and continuing to the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5,800 m to 6,100 m, and from 6,500 m to 7,500 m.
Camps established by the Russian team were located along these sections. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically impressive but rarely attempted line, exceedingly difficult due to its steepness. It was first successfully climbed in 1971. The crux lies at approximately 7,600 m in the area of the Seignior Wall. The West Face was successfully summited in 1997.
DETAILED ITINERARY
DAY 01: Fly to Tumlingtar & Prepare for Trek
Fly to Tumlingtar, a village situated at about 400 m above sea level—the starting point of the trek. Spend the day exploring and taking photographs. Our guide will arrange accommodation at the best available hotel in the area.
DAY 02: Tumlingtar Trek to Khadbari
Trek to Khadbari, a village at 1,400 m inhabited by various ethnic groups.
DAY 03: Khadbari Trek to Bhotebas (1,720 m)
A moderate 5-hour trek through villages, rivers, jungles, and scenic landscapes.
DAY 04: Bhotebas Trek to Num (2,200 m)
Wake early, organize belongings, and begin trekking toward Num. Breakfast will be arranged either before departure or along the trail.
DAY 05: Num Trek to Sedua
Your guide will advise whether to start after breakfast or have it on the trail.
DAY 06: Sedua Trek to Tashigaon (2,200 m)
Walk through forests, rivers, and mountain scenery toward Tashigaon—home to Sherpa and Gurung communities.
DAY 07: Tashigaon Trek to Kauma (Near Shipton Pass, 2,800 m)
Enjoy panoramic views while ascending to Kauma, where we acclimatize in preparation for crossing Shipton Pass (4,126 m).
DAY 08: Cross Shipton Pass to Mumbuk
Cross Shipton Pass (4,150 m) and descend to Mumbuk (3,500 m). Start the hike by 7:00 AM after breakfast.
DAY 09: Mumbuk Trek to Kharka (2,646 m)
A scenic day through small bush-covered hillsides and sparse settlements.
DAY 10: Kharka Trek to Shersung (4,614 m)
A 5–6 hour trek to Shersung. Breakfast may be taken at Kharka or along the way.
DAY 11: Shersung Trek to Makalu Base Camp (5,250 m)
An important day as we reach Makalu Base Camp—a less-traveled route, offering a unique trekking experience.
DAY 12: Acclimatization Day
Reserved for weather conditions and altitude adjustment.
DAY 13–42: Climbing Period (30 Days)
This month-long period is dedicated to climbing rotations, acclimatization, and summit attempts.
High-quality expedition tents (ISO standard) are used.
Our experienced Sherpa team monitors climbers’ physical condition and manages altitude-related concerns.
If necessary, climbers will be assisted back to lower camps until they recover.
DAY 43: Return to Lower Kharka
Retrace steps back to Lower Kharka.
DAY 44: Trek to High Kharka
Continue ascending back toward High Kharka.
DAY 45: High Kharka Trek to Mumbuk
A 6-hour trek back to Mumbuk.
DAY 46: Re-cross the Pass, Descend to Tashi Gaon
Re-cross Shipton Pass (4,150 m) and move down to Tashi Gaon.
DAY 47: Tashi Gaon to Bhotebas
A longer walking day with a descent toward Bhotebas.
DAY 48: Bhotebas Trek to Khadbari
Return to Khadbari, a culturally rich village with friendly locals.
DAY 49: Khadbari Trek to Tumlingtar
Final trekking day returning to Tumlingtar.
DAY 50: Fly Back to Kathmandu
Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel.
INCLUSIONS:
Airport representative and private transfers
Mt. Makalu peak permit fee
Accommodation in Kathmandu (bed & breakfast)
Transportation for members, staff, and Liaison Officer
Round-trip airfare Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu
Full board during trekking
All kitchen equipment and tents at base camp
Base camp staff, cook, and kitchen assistants
Equipment allowance, wages, and insurance for staff
National Park conservation fee
Local transportation in Kathmandu
Helicopter rescue insurance for Nepalese staff
Agency service charges
LOCAL PAYMENT:
Local payment refers to the remaining balance after deducting the advance payment. It must be paid upon arrival in cash or traveler’s check. Any additional programs purchased in Nepal will also be included in local payment.
EXCLUSIONS:
International airfare
Nepal entry visa fee
Visa extension fees
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
Hotel stays beyond 6 days in Kathmandu
Services above Base Camp
Personal climbing gear
Personal insurance (medical, travel, evacuation)
Customs duty for expedition goods
Personal expenses (drinks, laundry, phone, etc.)
Airport departure tax
Tips and bonuses
Refundable garbage deposit
PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECKLIST:
Down sleeping bag, down jacket
Gore-Tex jacket & trousers
Double climbing boots & trekking boots
Ice axe, hammer, crampons, rucksack
Harness, ropes, ice screws, carabiners
Headlamps, gloves, snow goggles, gaiters
Windproof clothing, water bottles
Personal medicines, a knife, and other essentials
NOTE:
Please read our terms and conditions before booking.
The itinerary can be customized before departure, but not once the trek begins.
Trip leaders are provided for groups of twelve or more.
